Do you use the stock torque specs when intalling ARP rod bolts & headstuds?

[boomer]

Originally Posted by Professor15

actually, what no one seemed to mention is, when you tq down rod bolts you dont even use a TQ wrench. you use a wrench and a rod bolt stretch gauge tool.

not necessarily
i have serveral paper slips, from SEVERAL motors that ive built, that are included with the ARP fasteners and i believe they "RECOMMEND" measuring the fasteners before torquing them down and measuring them after torquing them down. This had more to do with re-using fasteners than anything else. I also believe that following my previous instructions, as per the ARP moly lube packet indicates, that if you use the moly lube to get ACCURATE TQ measurements on the hardware during tightening then you are OK.

[Professor15]

Originally Posted by boomer

not necessarily
i have serveral paper slips, from SEVERAL motors that ive built, that are included with the ARP fasteners and i believe they "RECOMMEND" measuring the fasteners before torquing them down and measuring them after torquing them down. This had more to do with re-using fasteners than anything else. I also believe that following my previous instructions, as per the ARP moly lube packet indicates, that if you use the moly lube to get ACCURATE TQ measurements on the hardware during tightening then you are OK.

"There are three methods that can be employed to determine how much tension is exerted on a fastener; using a torque wrench, measuring the amount of stretch, and turning the fastener a pre-determined amount (torque angle). Of these methods, use of a stretch gauge is the most accurate."

From ARP's website...

[boomer]

Originally Posted by Professor15

"There are three methods that can be employed to determine how much tension is exerted on a fastener; using a torque wrench, measuring the amount of stretch, and turning the fastener a pre-determined amount (torque angle). Of these methods, use of a stretch gauge is the most accurate."

From ARP's website...

Why dont you go read up on this more...You CLEARLY havent ever assembled a motor before...If you had then you would know that the "average joe" (as in anybody who doesn't want to pay a machine shop to assemble their motor) is inclined to use a TQ Wrench and as the ARP site states that is one of the 3 ways to properly TQ fasteners as I previously stated with the ARP moly lube.

This is particularly embarrassing for you considering how much shit you talk around here...If you had ever used or assembled ARP hardware before then you would know that the TQ wrench + ARP moly lube is (for arguments sake) just as good as stretching bolts and playing the machine shop game. Not to mention that the hardware is designed to withstand a bracket of abuse.

[Professor15]

Originally Posted by boomer

Why dont you go read up on this more...You CLEARLY havent ever assembled a motor before...If you had then you would know that the "average joe" (as in anybody who doesn't want to pay a machine shop to assemble their motor) is inclined to use a TQ Wrench and as the ARP site states that is one of the 3 ways to properly TQ fasteners as I previously stated with the ARP moly lube.

This is particularly embarrassing for you considering how much shit you talk around here...If you had ever used or assembled ARP hardware before then you would know that the TQ wrench + ARP moly lube is (for arguments sake) just as good as stretching bolts and playing the machine shop game. Not to mention that the hardware is designed to withstand a bracket of abuse.

Lmaaao..dude w.e. floats your boat. this maybe a lil embarrassing for YOU but A good stretch gauge is like 100 bucks from summit racing or you can just buy the ARP one, and thats what ARP recommends YOU do for their fasteners...idk what else to say. Im NOT arguing the fact that you can just TQ them down, im simply stating that using a stretch gauge, per ARP's advice, is the most accurate...so get the sand out of your vagina.

[swapit08]

Using a stretch gage is the most accurate.But for the do it yourself guys i would use a good torque wrench(not autozone edition)and moly over the oil.and i do two steps 25ftlbs first then final step via which stud is being used(head,main,rod).i do take headstuds depending on the set-up higher then arp recommends.i have two 42r cars that we make 800+ and we take them to 90ft lbs and replace them everytime the motor is apart

[ROOKIEPAINS]

Originally Posted by boomer

who are you talking to?
third grade math?
yea theres no question on the bolt/stud sizes...

the biggest thing that no one seemed to mention is you should use the ARP moly lude on the threads when torquing the fasteners to make sure you are getting consistant readings on the TQ wrench.

obviously not you bcuz i did not see u post in this thread .
i know most ppl dont build engines me not being one of them i build plenty of them, but even some one who has never built an engine will know that you have to use lube and no not always arp lube there are manylubes to use.
another thing you forgot to mention ''mr. enginebuilder'' is that you have to lube the whole bolt not only the threads.from bottom of the head to the tip of the threads .another thing is the best way to torque a rod bolt is using the stretch method.. but what arp did not tell you is that the dial indicators are little bitches .when using the stretch gage it really fucks with you.so arp gives you torque specs that correspond with they're recomended ''bolt stretch spec''.. btw some one on top said the smallest bolt was 7/16 thats why i explained the 3rd grade math

[Volumetric Proficiency]

EAGLE's used to come with 5/16 bolts. Thats probably what he was referring to.

Anyway, stretch is a good method, especially on race motors, or on builds where you are reusing rod bolts.

Personally, on street stuff with new , high quality fasteners such as ARP, I just TQ them to spec 3 times to burnish the threads and be done with it.