H2B and F2B FAQ's

[turbohybridlude]

OK i get all of pms asking me about the h2b kits,tranny, etc so i decided to help everyone out and answer some question you may have. Faq's will be courtesy of Qsd and Honda-tech. Feel free to add or correct me. Im just looking out for my fellow b20 peeps....

What is H2B?
H2B, can also be called F2B is mating a F or H engine to a B-series transmission. F and H have the same bolt pattern for the transmission, since you can use a F trans on a H engine, and vice versa, H2B is also F2B. For clarity Instead of calling the setup "H2B/F2B" I will call it H2B from this point foward.

H2B uses b-series axles, b-series linkage, b-series mounts, b-series clutch, b-series pressure plate.

Which motor mounts do I use with the QSD H2B kit?

QSD's H2B kit utilizes the corresponding B-series mounts pertaining to your chassis. With our concept the transmission does not relocate and therefore all mounting positions are retained around the tranny. Kits includes an engine mount bracket specific to your chassis that will use the corresponding B-series mount. EF chassis’s require any aftermarket bolt-in-kit, or re-welded B-series mounts, just as if it was a B-series.

We DO NOT recommend the use of OEM mounts alone. We would not advise exiting B-series owners to use decade old mounts with any performance application . At the minimum urethane inserts should be used and we highly recommend using any of the major aftermarket B-series mount kits available.

Which rear L-bracket do I use?

The same L-bracket used with a B-series within your chassis. EF uses DA, EG/DC uses DC, EK uses 99+ SI.

Which flywheel and clutch do I use?

Any B-series flywheel and clutch combination work! From the flywheel out, everything is B-series. You cannot use an H-series flywheel. It will not fit within the B-series bell-housing.

Is the position and length of the axles or shift linkage changed in any way?

No. The transmission does not budge, so neither do the axles or shift linkage.

So what has to remain from the H-series drivetrain?

Nothing. Our H2B uses entire B-series drivetrain from the flywheel out to the axles. It really is a simple conversion for an existing B-series owner.

So all I need from the H-series is the longblock and it’s components?

Correct.

Does the engine adapter plate work with an F-series block? [/b]

Yes. F22, F23, F20B... and all H Blocks.

Does the kit work with the later model SH blocks?

Our adapter plate will bolt up to any H-series engine. However, the new SH blocks used with the ATTS transmission were designed with a different block casting than the rest. The rear of the block is completely different and does not work with our B-series intermediate adapter. It is possible to do, but you will have to weld the core mounts onto the block. It's been done and will work.

Is hood clearance an issue with all chassis’?

Yes. This is the sacrifice you have to make to optimize your drivetrain. Since the B-series transmission is not repositioned, the H-series engine will now sit in a slightly higher position.

DA, EG, & DC owners can run an OEM hood while spacing the rear hinges 1.5 inches.

The EF faithful are not so fortunate. A cowl style hood/or modifications will be required. You need a solid 3 inches of clearance in a Rex. And no, the SIR hood does not even come close.

EK guys are the lucky ones. The hood will close completely without spacers.

What must be done to the drivers side framerail?

Framerail modifications must be made in all chassis’s to gain the clearance needed for the alternator belt. A focus of engine clearance resides around the rear balancing shaft gear.

Running a smaller alternator belt from either the B/D-series engine will assist but still requires clearance to fit.

Prepare to drop your engine in and out a few times before satisfied clearance is obtained.

What other modifications are required on the engine?

You must also grind the rear of the block to create clearance needed for the drivers side axle. Instructions are included within our kit.

Does Quartersports make an H2B kit for any of the Prelude chassis’s?

Our kits are designed solely for the Honda Civic/CRX and Acura Integra chassis. There are no future plans to make them for the Prelude/Accord chassis'.

How much does the kit cost?
The evolutions kit with mounts cost $1440.45
w/o mounts 1039.50
looking for price on qsd kit~~~

What's the main difference in the kits?
Evolution uses a custom flywheel
QSD uses a flywheel spacer

Other issues with H2B:
The engine sits in a higher location than normal h22 swaps (non-h2b) so hood clearance is an issue. You can space the hood with longer bolts + washers/spacers. The thread pitch is M6-1.0. The other option would be to maybe fabricate a custom rear t-bracket that drops the engine/trans about 1" or so and put washers between the chassis mounts and the trans. Whichever you prefer.

Header/exhaust manifold issue:

The H/F series tilts towards the firewall like this / (drivers side view) but with H2B the engine is placed in a more vertical position like this | With that said, the stock prelude/accord exhaust manifold will point up towards the firewall. You have two options here, you can heat the stock manifold up and bend it to the desired position. The custom route is also available, camp1320 currently offers an H2B header at a reasonable price, I've also heard of RMF supplying custom H2B headers and I believe (could be wrong) that Bisi is working on one for his evolution kit.

On our civics/integras we have 3 main mounts:
Rear transmission mount
Passenger side transmission mount
Drivers side engine mount

As you can see, only one mount actually connects to the engine. Both H2B kits include a custom timing belt mount on the engine that mates to the stock B-series chassis mount This means, you use B-series mounts. Both H2B kits strongly reccomend using aftermarket mounts and at the minimum to use mount inserts.

Advantages of H2B:
The main advantage is displacement. Big Bore = Big Power. With the relatively low cost of the H/F-series longblocks, it gets to a point where H2B/F2B is a lot more cost effective than building a B-series, particulary NA. In my opinion this is a good alternative to the K-series swap.

When comparing it to a K-swap, you don't have to worry about the shifter, you don't have to spend an arm and a leg for the mounts, you don't have to buy that expensive K-pro, no custom axles. There is plenty of aftermarket support and knowledge for the H/F-series engines, as well as plenty of aftermarket support and knowledge for the B-series transmission. The best of both worlds. H2B kits may seem expensive at first, but when you compare all these other factors, it begins to seem like a bargain. Remember, All other non-D swaps require custom axles, mounts, and shifter modification.

"Can I run an H2B without banging my framerail?"
YES! But you cannot use the balance shafts and timing belt covers unless you modify the covers or make your own out of sheet metal or any other sturdy material. The balance shafts will remain on the motor but are not used. If you want to completely remove them I suggest the balance shaft eliminator kit from KAIZENSPEED but you will have to take out the crankshaft.
This was done on my eg hatch but im sure all other chassis provide about the same clearance. I'm running the QSD kit by the way. First thing is to remove your crank pulley and timing balancer belt drive pulley. Next step is to take them to a machine shop to have them shave down your crank pulley and make a spacer out of the balancer belt drive pulley. I had both done for $60. (1st pic below. This is what drives the balance shafts) make sure they cut enough material out of the spacer so it fits over the crank pulley opening. Now, you can either make your own alternator bracket or buy one from Explicit Speed Performance Im running the lower alternator bracket moved 1/2" to the passenger side with a D-series alternator(they are smaller and I had 3 laying around)

[OPEY]

great job, stickied. hopefully people will actually read B4 asking

[StinkyTurbo]

Stickied