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  1. #1
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    Screwing your slick to the rim!!!

    well i came apon this write up on screwing your slick to your rim. For the guys making power and having the issue of the slick spinning on the rim and hurting your short track!!

    Enjoy.. and if you do it . Post pix!!

    Props to IPG!! :goodjob:

    IPG Parts // Innes Performance Group


    [SIZE=5] [/SIZE][SIZE=5]Tech Article:How to Install Rim Screws[/SIZE]

    In addition to general updates about the goings on at IPG and new product offerings we can also utilize the news section to release tech and news articles that we will be working on.
    For our introductory Tech Article we discuss an important process for any drag racing wheel/tire combination. This particular article features the popular Weld Magnum Import Drag Wheels with Mickey Thompson ET Drag Slicks.
    It seems like this subject comes up about once a month, here is how we have installed rim screws for reference to aide in future inquiries.
    Here are the parts you may want to gather prior to beginning work:
    - Wheel
    - Pre-made Template -- Cardboard and Scissors work too (measure approximately 10 evenly spaced marks)
    - Marker
    - Hammer
    - Punch
    - Drill
    - Anti-Seize
    - Screws
    We have always used 10 screws for each side -- so 20 screws per wheel -- 40 screws to complete your project.

    Step 1 -- Mark spots to be drilled on outside of the wheel -- this is probably the easiest way to make the markings, you could just directly mark the inside of the wheel if you feel lucky.

    Step 2 -- Transfer markings from the front of the wheel to the inside of the wheel to pinpoint the spots to be punched/drilled

    Step 3 -- Use a punch to give your drill bit a guide

    Step 4 -- Drill locations from the inside of the wheel with correct drill size bit (some kits come with drill bits already, other kits will specify what size you need in most cases)
    you will want to drill through the wheel at a 45 degree angle
    the following images will represent good placement for the screw from the inside of the wheel and the front face of the wheel



    Ignore the holes in the direct center of the wheel, that is where the center of the wheel bolts into place.

    Step 5 -- Debur the drilled holes
    Step 6 -- Mount Tires
    Step 7 -- Air up the tires to approximately 25-30 psi. With a little bit of anti-seize on each screw you will want to drive the screw through the rim into the bead of the tire

    Step 8 -- Balance Wheels/Tires once screws are in place.
    Step 9 -- Haul Butt


    Last edited by sajoma856; 06-11-2010 at 01:51 AM.


    10.64@137mph...i live vicariously through myself

  2. #2
    Ok LeTs tRy tHiS AgAin... sajoma856's Avatar
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    very nice...i will make this a sticky....this is a problem that alot of ppl have

    i will copy and paste whats on the link incase that page ever goes down....
    Last edited by sajoma856; 06-11-2010 at 01:40 AM.


  3. #3
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    Why not just get a bead lock :what: Screwing your slicks to your rim just doesn't sound right. You will weaken the lip of the rim by drilling the holes, not to mention if you're worried about spinning your slick on the rim, now you will have to worry about tearing the slick up because you just made a hole in the tires lip.
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  4. #4
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    beadlock is the way!! But :jsin:

    This has been done already for yearssssssss without an issue!! Not like we are doing any offroading with slicks on to really damage the rim. If you hit a curb with your slicks on , you asked for that . lol!!

    This is just something for the poor people.


    10.64@137mph...i live vicariously through myself

  5. #5
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    bumping it up!
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  6. #6
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    Bump they should sticky this ill be doing this on mines also thanks for the info

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